A guide to some of Spain¡¯s best (and cheapest) ¡®men¨²s del d¨ªa¡¯
Whether it¡¯s in a classic tavern or fusion eatery, you can find great meals for €15 or less
If you¡¯re struggling to survive in Spain¡¯s low-wage, high-unemployment economy, then fear not: the EL PA?S gastronomy website El Comidista has talked to some of the country¡¯s leading food writers with the goal of drawing up a list of restaurants where it is still possible to have a decent men¨² del d¨ªa for €15 or less.
All of these establishments offer a selection of first courses, second courses and dessert, and typically come with drinks and bread included in the price.
MADRID
¡°The Spanish omelet is to die for!¡± says Nella Ruggiero, a journalist at foodie website Platunique. That probably explains why every time I pass the place, it¡¯s packed¡ That and its eight starters and 12 main courses. Aside from the above-mentioned tortilla de patata, this traditional establishment offers patatas revolconas (deep-fried pork belly chunks in paprika-seasoned mashed potato), kidneys in sherry, and breaded ¡°ear¡± of hake. Until I read their menu, I never even knew that hakes had ears.
Casa Dani: Mercado de la Paz. Lagasca street, 49. Madrid. Tel. 915 755 925. Map. Set menu price €9.50.
It always seems to be full, but you always seem to find a table. La Sanabresa is the perfect place to go when you are hungry and alone: you¡¯ll want to take the waiters home with you. Home cooking and generous portions are the secret of this no-frills, long-established, family-run place.
La Sanabresa: Amor de Dios street, 12. Madrid. Tel. 914 290 338. Map. Set menu price: €11.
BARCELONA
El Comidista writer M¨®nica Escudero says: ¡°The midday men¨² at Mostassa sometimes includes duck breast tacos that make you wonder how they manage to keep the price at €10; it also includes soup or salad, along with vegetarian dishes, pudding, and proper bread.¡± I couldn¡¯t agree more. Mostassa is little short of a miracle.
Mostassa: Mallorca street, 194. Barcelona. Tel. 932 693 841. Map. Set menu price: €10.
Mikel L¨®pez Iturriaga, El Comidista Foodie n¨²mero uno, really rolls out the rhetoric in his extensive praise for? Bo di Napoli: ¡°This Neapolitan is really smashing.¡± As I¡¯m not sure if that¡¯s a reference to the restaurant or the chef, I look into the matter and discover that the staff, the ingredients and the dishes are all 100% authentic. Try the delicious antipasti, its pizzas, and pasta worth scaling Vesuvius for.
Bo di Napoli: Val¨¨ncia street, 197. Barcelona. Tel. 931 895 878. Map. Set price menu: €12.50.
BILBAO
¡°Gastronomy is the new rock ¡®n¡¯ roll,¡± says food writer Igor Cubillo, of Lo que Coma Don Manuel. ¡°At Sat¨¦lite T, there are concerts, vermouth tasting sessions, and a top-notch men¨² del d¨ªa. The food is attractively served, it¡¯s tasty, and has a modern, fun touch. On a typical day they¡¯ll have a trout soup starter, while for the main courses there will be a Brie salad with tomato jam and stuffed peppers, followed by apple pie, crumble, or almond and green tea ice cream.¡± What¡¯s more, you can save money by simply having a single course.
Sat¨¦lite T: Ribera de Botica Vieja, 13. Bilbao. Tel. 670 599 200. Map. Set menu price: €12. Single course: €8.50.
MALAGA
Jos¨¦ Maldonado, better known as Pepe Kitchen, writes: ¡°Jacobo V¨¢zquez offers us traditional soups and stews with a personal touch: starters include Russian salad with M¨¢laga prawns, followed by a huge rack of ribs for two people. If you¡¯re a stew lover, then don¡¯t miss the Andalusian-style lamb¡¯s tripe, seafood and tripe, or starters such as home-made croquettes or the sausage p?t¨¦. Call ahead to order the full cocido stew for €15. Luxury.¡± I can¡¯t wait to try it.
Castizo Casa de Comidas: Avenida del Editor ?ngel Caffarena. M¨¢laga. Tel. 609 561 401. Map. Set menu price from €12.
OVIEDO
Rub¨¦n Gald¨®n is a journalist and trainee chef. He also has his own blog, Omacatladas, and is an expert on the cuisine of his native Asturias. He recommends spending €10 on the set menu of La Fundici¨®n, in Oviedo. ¡°The best thing here is that they really work hard to come up with new ideas, with a creative touch that is hard to find in the rest of the downtown Oviedo, and at that price.¡± The men¨² del d¨ªa is just €8. A giveaway.
La Fundici¨®n: Campoamor street, 17. Oviedo. Tel. 984 046 432. Map. Set menu price: €10. Half menu: €8.
SALAMANCA
When two connoisseurs like David Monaguillo and Sandeea team up, you know it¡¯s going to be good. ¡°The menu has three starters, three main courses, along with pudding and a drink. These are traditional dishes with a non-traditional touch. The tripe and sweetbreads are outstanding. Tuesdays is cocido. The chef is Jorge Lozano, although I prefer to call him the Stew Master.¡±
Tapas 3.0: S¨¢nchez Barbero street,? 9. Salamanca. Tel. 923 619 619. Map. Set menu price: €15.
SAN SEBASTI?N
I don¡¯t think I will ever be fully able to thank Xabier de la Maza, the owner of The Loaf bakery, for introducing me to this magnificent restaurant offering a no-nonsense one-course menu, along with another featuring no fewer than five courses. Standouts include the meatballs (alb¨®ndigas), lettuce hearts, baked tomato with pickled tuna, lentil hamburgers, lasagna and pudding.
Gerald's Bar: Iparragirre street, 13. San Sebasti¨¢n. Tel. 943 083 001. Map. Set menu price: €14. Single course menu: €10.
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
Alfonso, of Spanish recipe website Recetas de rechupete, says the secret of A Moa¡¯s success is its use of seasonal produce. The set menu always tries to innovate, putting this place in a league of its own compared to similarly priced eateries in Santiago. The d¨¦cor is very nice, and if you¡¯re lucky and the sun is shining, you can eat in the garden.¡±
A Moa: Ru¨¢ de San Pedro, 32. Santiago de Compostela. Tel: 981 071 818. Map. Set menu price: €15.
VALENCIA
This timeless Valencian restaurant offers six starters, five second courses, and any number of puddings. Try the classics on the menu, such as clams with pasta or a hearty fried egg with chistorra sausage.
Rojas Clemente: Plaza Rojas Clemente. Valencia. Tel. 963 917 197. Map. Set price menu: €11.50.
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