The science behind the perfect salmorejo

For 10 years, a group of researchers from C¨®rdoba University has been trying to establish a basic standard recipe for salmorejo that could be used by a quality brand, and thus gain broader recognition for this traditional tomato-based dish, which is similar to cold gazpacho soup.

The research began in 2007 at the university¡¯s Food Science and Technology Department. Their work has allowed an association called the Gastronomic Salmorejo Guild of Cordoba to suggest a core recipe consisting of one kilo of tomatoes, 200g of Telera bread, a local specialty, 100g of extra virgin olive oil, a clove of Montalb¨¢n garlic and 10g of salt.

A survey carried out in 754 bars and restaurants confirmed that this basic recipe was the general departure point for the salmorejo that is served to the public. ¡°The survey covered more than 22% of the census,¡± says research director Rafael Moreno. ¡°That is a big enough percentage to offer a reasonable idea of the uses and traditions of the dish in the city.¡±

Although salmorejo is served fresh and thus linked in many people¡¯s minds with summer, it is not considered a seasonal dish in bars and restaurants

Researchers found that the average salmorejo recipe uses a kilo of plum tomatoes (66%), generally unpeeled (44%), 108g of extra virgin olive oil (61%), 197g of dry, day-old bread (46%), 5.8g of Montalb¨¢n garlic (44%) and 9g of coarsely ground salt.

Other interesting data concerning the dish included the fact that 79% of establishments garnished salmorejo with ham and 66% with hard-boiled egg, while 28% served it with a dash of olive oil.

Although salmorejo is served fresh and thus linked in many people's minds with summer, it is not considered a seasonal dish in bars and restaurants. In fact, 78% of eateries feature it on the menu year-round, not least because in 50% of cases, it is among their three top orders at an average price of between €5.50 and €6.

Published in the journal Nutrici¨®n Hospitalaria, the research also found that salmorejo without garnish is low in calories and cholesterol. It is also a good source of water-soluble and fat-soluble vitamins and monounsaturated fats.

Homegrown variety

Researchers are now keen to find out about the homemade variety and are carrying out surveys among shoppers and on social networks.

¡°There is a wide range of answers,¡± says Moreno. ¡°People add beetroot, peach, cucumber, onion, pepper and raw egg.¡±

Between 15% and 20% of homemade salmorejo also features vinegar. ¡°Now we are going to find out why the homemade recipe is so diverse,¡± says the nutrition professor.

English version by Heather Galloway.